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Biennale

Ten days of rut called the “New York Fashion” Week illustrated.

Phil Oh’s Street Style: New York

Sorry Tom, I thought it doesn’t get better. But here comes Phil and he is way more close. Sign of the Times: There is always somebody better out there.

cReep

cReep

This creeper-style sneaker-shoe hybrid is the first style coming out of the PUMA Rihanna alliance. Celebrity branding always seem to work. And Rihanna gives her high brow pieces always a street cred touch with an element of athletic.

The Ghetto Future

Hudson River Park outfitted for Givenchy’s night.

The New Minis, Maximum Impact.

The Most Important Fashion Designer …

The Most Important Fashion Designer …

of the nine-tees writes Sarah Mower in vogue.com. I would say he is my favorite designer and I miss him. He never disappointed, always ramped up his agenda. He was so much fun, a lot of his styles look good today. I have still have a leather jacket I wear every winter. When I arrived in New York in 1997 I noticed all the taxis had Helmut Lang advertising on their top. How delighted I was. I grew up with Helmut Lang in Munich. He was well known in Germany way before and moved then to Paris before he landed in New York.

What he achieved in the nineties is so little written about, so far beyond the existing reach of the Internet—and was so elusive, even at the time—that it’s hard to capture its enormity. What he did went far beyond inventing a casual-formal, elegant-subversive uniformthings to wear every day that emitted confidence, centeredness, and sexiness. It was more than that.  It was the coming of age of the cool.

Yes cool he was and the news of his departure from the label were received sadly. What should I wear and my friends? We all went to his sale and store closure in New York in 2005. The coolest members of New York’s creative class were present.

It was a coded disguise, a knowing way for the cool of both sexes to hide their origins in plain sight.

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10 Essentials x Chris Haines

10 Essentials x Chris Haines

Richard Haines is among the most well-known illustrators working in fashion today. He cut his teeth in fashion design but has come to practically reinvent the art of menswear illustration and has worked prolifically for the likes of The New York Times, Prada, Dries van Noten and GQ. His seminal blog, What I Saw Today, is a feast of his work—all of which is at once gestural, diaphanous and bold—and a delight for the skilled scroller, especially at the height of the fashion weeks.

10 Essentials: Richard Haines | Smart Magazine

Sneaker Slang

Sneaker Slang

Every culture has it’s own unique slang that helps dedicated connoisseurs stay in tune with what they love to do. Sneakers aren’t much different, fanatics use these terms on a daily basis to communicate with each other. Every wonder what does DEADSTOCK mean? Well you came to the right place. We will school you on all of the trendy words that make up the sneaker culture.

Deadstock – DS – Is one of the most common terms used amongst sneakerheads. It implies that the shoe up for sale is brand new and never worn or tried on.
Very Near Deadstock – VNDS – If a shoe is worn slightly but is close to deadstock condition.
Near Deadstock – NDS – If a shoe is worn consecutively and shows slight wear but can pass as deadstock if cleaned and worked on.
Limited Edition – LE – A shoe that is produced in limited quantities and is only available through a select few retailers.
Player Exclusive – PE- A shoe that was produced under the supervision of a specific athlete and customized with certain colors or patterns that are designed accordingly to the athletes team or country affiliation.
Skateboard – SB – A shoe line dedicated to Skateboarding.
Original – OG – A shoe that was introduced before a retro version was released. This term is best associated with Nike shoes.
Air Max – AM- Nike initially introduced the the Air Max technology in 1987
on the Nike Air Max 1. The shoe is supported by an air cushioning that is placed underneath the foot.
Special Edition – SE – A shoe that celebrates a certain occasion and is released in limited quantities. This term is best associated with Nike shoes.
Reflective Material – 3M – A reflective technology commonly placed on sneakers produced by corporate conglomerate Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company.
ACG – All Conditions Gear – Is a collection produced by Nike focusing on outdoor sports such a mountain climbing, hiking and long distance walks. The ACG collection is best known for incorporating materials that comply with various weather conditions.
Jordan Brand – JB – A shoe line based around Michael Jordan. Shoes part of the line are also associated with the Air Jordan trademark.
No Fly Wire – NFW – Futuristic Nike models have incorporated the special flyer wire material, several pairs that are associated with the material were not produced with it and were categorized by NFW.
HTM – A set of shoes designed by Hiroshi Fujiwara, Tinker Hatfield, and Mark Parker. HTM is the first letter of each designers name.
Cool Gray – CG – CG – Cool Grey, usually used when talking about the Air Jordan 3, 4, 9, or 11
Lifestyle – LS – A special release typically associated with Jordan Brand which ties in matching clothing and sneakers. Generally lifestyle releases are limited.
Defining Moments Package – DMP – A package which consisted of an Air Jordan XI and Air Jordan VI, the release celebrated two pivotal points in Michael Jordans career. The package was limited and is a highly sought after item.
Air Force 1 – AF1 – One of the first trend setting shoes that comes in a traditional white/white colorway and over 3000+ random colorways. The shoe is produced by Nike and is one of the best selling shoes of all time.
Grade School – GS – Shoes produced for infants and children. A term that was invented by Nike.
General Release – GR – A shoe that is made available by most sneaker retailers, it is not a limited model and can be obtained quite easily when released.
Blue Ribbon Sports – BRS – The original footwear company started by Phil Knight. It would eventually lead to the establishment of Nike.
New In Box – NIB – Shoes that are never taken out of original packaging and are offered to consumers using the aforementioned terminology.
Collaboration – X – It is common amongst footwear companies and streetwear brands to collaborate on projects. To symbolize the combination an X would be used between the two company names I.E. adidas x 10 Deep.
Heat – Hard to find shoe models that are no longer available in retail stores.
Holy Grail – A shoe that has both sentimental and monetary value to the owner and supersedes the rest of the shoes in ones collection.
Sample – A shoe that is used for either promotional or wear test purposes.
Prototype – A sample that is never released to the public and is typically used for wear test purposes.
B-Grade – A shoe with flaws that is made available at manufacturer outlet stores.
Beater – A shoe that is worn on a daily basis without care.
Retro – A shoe that is re-released and molded to the specification of the original model.
Quickstrike – A shoe that is released in limited quantities in specialized retail stores.
Hyper strike – A shoe that is released in extremely limited quantities and is not advertised or promoted till the shoe is made available to the public.
Bred – A Jordan shoe with a black and red colorway.
P-Rod – A line of shoes themed behind skateboarder Paul Rodriguez.
Hype – A shoe that receives a lot of attention before the actual release date.
Hypebeast – A person who takes the street wear culture up a notch and wears some of the most expensive and sought after items available.

SCANDAL スキャンダル


My favorite Asian Pop Stars. Not only super cute but also very accomplished musicians who play their instruments live.

Tommy Ton NY-Paris

“You don’t own your brand.”


“You don’t own your brand. A brand isn’t a logo or packaging”.”It’s a gut feeling. And when two people have the same gut feeling, you have a brand.” Secondly, most people view design as a part of the production chain, you get requirements in and out comes a product. But design is the chain, and for the best products it permeates every step. “It should be a topic of conversation constantly,” he says. “Thats how you make great stuff.”

Men’s by Damien Florébert Cuypers

The Models, Editors and Street-Style Stars of Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, Illustrated

Street Style Paris Men’s

Reinvent Yourself

Reinvent Yourself

don’t repress yourself. To quote and old song from Madonna. I follow Madonna for a long time. I am less fascinated by the many facets she presents and evolves into. But the sheer staying power and overcoming the obstacles of staying relevant in an industry which should have fired her a long time ago. She is not only doing the work for a generation of people who want to stay fresh a life long but it becomes a case study for entities who want to stay on top of their game a long time. In any industry to be strong after 35 years, and not only fashion, is a huge challenge, only a few manage. How to get from good to great and stay is a question for artists and companies alike. The New York Times asks,

“she changes, but does she evolve?

I don’t care, she stretches out the territory.

Flash, Trash Fashion Mash

This endorsement video is a tour de force in Moschino inspired kitsch fashion. M like Madonna but where was Jeremy Scott? Alexander Wang got in, “Dressed in Black Again”.

Pharrell Williams Decoded

Pharrell Williams Decoded

Pharrell Williams is the chicest of them all. The musician and CFDA Fashion Icon has honed a taste that is truly his own, combining sporty street elements with Parisian high fashion and a singular irreverence.

“I get my style from just random people, everyday people—like, construction is interesting to me. Everyday things, you know, service uniforms, sports, skateboarding, normcore, grandma sweaters—all of that stuff is interesting to me.”

 

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Azzedine Alaïa about his first perfume:
“Creating a perfume is to confide in a woman, to steal her thoughts of tomorrow and run away with her before she ever looks back. … Creating a perfume is also knowing that, at that precise instant, the words I use to recount my secret already no longer belong to me. … My perfume is not reasonable — it makes time lie. I dreamed of it like an archaeologist dreams of sculptures from antiquity lying at the bottom of the sea for millennia, sculptures of perfect bodies, matched only by the women of today — an ideal and timeless beauty.”

Read more
How to be Cool

How to be Cool

I came across this booklet, it reminds me of my time in Brooklyn. “How to be Fashionable or Consume like me.” I can still enjoy some recommendations and smile about others. “Wear beat up old clothes with two very expensive small items” or “Fly coach order Champagne”. Written 2003 it has still some relevance, it also addresses your intellectual property. Somebody should write an update, if this is possible. More trends and styles travel at much faster speeds and preferences are much more fragmented. But it would be fun to read a  new one. And maybe of different cities to exchange ideas and styles.

View PDF: How to be Fashionable or Consume like Me

How to Be Fashionable or Consume Like Me by Andrew Coulter Enright
Published in 2003 and available free online, Andrew Coulter Enright shares an ironic, but aesthetically pleasing guide to being an artist/writer/thinker (read as hyper-cool, while being totally uncool) in Brooklyn. Want to know all of the tricks to looking hip, but not played out? This is your bible. The graphic design is amazing (including the choice of the brown inked typeface).  

If you read this book, you are sure to recognize parts of yourself in its pages. It is sometimes laughably unclear whether you should feel honored or slightly embarrassed at this recognition of self amid the trends. This will continue to be an lasting record of the twenty-something creative scene pre-recession and post 9/11. 

From a TIME Magazine article published 9.9.2003:
Andrew Coulter Enright, 24, whose book, How to Be Fashionable or Consume Like Me, captured the ethos of this generation as it exists in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn, N.Y. “You’re talking about people who have creative pastimes or careers and are interested in fusing lots of different parts of culture together. The Creative Underground doesn’t have the catch to it, but it’s a little more accurate.”

From a NYTimes article published 2.15.2004:
‘How to Be Fashionable or Consume Like Me,” an irony-rich collection of Jenny Holzer-like epigrams for the style-obsessed that include, ”Eat Edamame” and ”Wake up on a stranger’s couch. Later, realize it was an Eames original.”

The Tyntpress, publisher of ”How to be Fashionable,” has a manifesto on its Web site that proclaims its intention to make books by young artists that express ”our view of popular culture,” ”free of the preciousness that attaches itself to projects like Visionaire,” without ”creating fussy little books,” in a ”punk-rock ethos.”

 

David Hockney

David Hockney

An interviewThere’s something art can do for the soul that you can’t really put into words, he says. He talks about a Matisse exhibition that he saw at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Critics can be dismissive of art that makes people feel good – as they have been at times of Hockney’s. Sod ’em, he says.

“That Matisse show was unbelievable. It was pure joy. Pure joy. And joy is a great thing to give to people.”